Life is a circle says the old adage and in the case of Michelle Howley that’s certainly true. Having studied theology to Masters level and completed research in monasticism she now finds herself on a monastic site baking bread from scratch every day, just as the ancient monks would have done. It’s a fair bet the monks weren’t baking Ballymaloe-inspired ciabatta, Guinness and treacle soda bread or scones though!
Born in Strandhill, Michelle’s part time job in a pizza restaurant as a teenager opened her eyes to the wonderful world of food. She loved it and the buzz she got from it but assumed it was a fad which would pass, rather than a serious career choice. Instead she opted for the university route, where she trained to be a teacher of music and religious education then taking up work in Carlow.
Her passion for food never left her and when the Covid19 pandemic changed the playing field entirely, she decided to follow her heart. Her husband Wesley was working in Cork at the time so retraining at Ballymaloe was an obvious option. To say she loved it is an understatement – she’s promised herself she will do the three month course again when she retires, just for the pure pleasure of it.
Her first job after Ballymaloe was at a bakery in Midleton where her shift began at midnight and ran until 10.30am. Instead of being put off by shaping 250 sourdough loaves by hand every night, it inspired her and her love of baking simply expanded. The aim was always to move home to Sligo and when the opportunity arose two years ago, the young couple jumped at it and Michelle took over the café beside poet W B Yeats grave in Drumcliffe.
The Ballymaloe ethos is evident in her dedication to local suppliers and food provenance sourcing salad leaves from Good Guys Organic in Cliffony, eggs from Benbulben Farm and Drumkilty Farm, Carrow Coffee and Wildwood Honey. Everything is baked from scratch daily, and Michelle has even built a specific bakery kitchen onto the café. Between eat-in and take away customers, events and catering platters for everything from communions to work celebrations, both kitchens are kept busy all the time.
The intriguing name has a Yeats connection – Pink Clover Club was the name of a raspberry and lemon gin-based cocktail the poet took a shine to during a New York dinner. Not content with enjoying one as an aperitif, he insisted on drinking it throughout the entire meal. As an additional tribute, Michelle has created a raspberry and lemon water kefir which is gathering quite a following, it’s almost a cult offering at this stage! Keep an eye out for it at the Pink Clover stand at food festivals.
Given all that activity, time off is at a premium/ Michelle hits the beach regularly to blow off the cobwebs accompanied by Otto, the Weimaraner, their energetic young dog. Her other way to unwind is snuggled up on a Sunday morning reading cookbooks. Now that really is obsession!
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